There are several factors that come into play when we look at lash retention and any one of them can be the reason, or part of the reason why your lash sets aren’t lasting. Our job as lash techs is to ask the right questions and ensure that we are doing the right steps throughout the treatment to ensure our clients get the most out of their lash sets.
Here’s your ultimate guide to better lash extension retention. We’ll be going through the different troubleshooting questions you can ask yourself and your clients to get to the bottom of why your sets aren’t lasting.
Preparation
Good preparation is key to long-lasting sets. There are a few key steps in ensuring you are prepping your clients’ lashes in the way that’s right for them. One size doesn’t always fit all with preparation!
So, firstly, what are the different ways you can prep the natural lashes for a set of extensions?
- Shampoo
- Protein Remover Pads
- Cleanser
- pH Balancer
- Primer
It’s important to know that not every one of these steps will be suitable for every one of your clients.
Shampoo
Great for sensitive clients that have a lot of oil or makeup residue on their lashes. It will cleanse the lashes as well as the surrounding area which will help the eye pads/ tape to stay in place too. This product can be used on any client and ensures all impurities are removed before starting. Thus giving you a clean canvas to work with to get the best bond between the glue and natural lash.
Pink Prep Pads
Designed to remove makeup traces, oils and proteins from the eye and surrounding area. They are great when prepping to complete a full set. The small pads will swipe over the whole area efficiently and effectively. Be careful if using before an infill, as the fibres in the pad may get caught at the base of the extensions.
Cleanser
Another great addition to your lash preparation steps. This is another product which will remove any oil, proteins or makeup residue from the lashes. It has a higher alcohol content than a shampoo, so any residue left from the shampoo will be picked up by the cleanser. Creating the perfect base for the best retention.
pH Balancer
A great product to add to your pre-treatment prep routine. Did you know that the pH of a client’s lash is just as important to retention & bonding as humidity and temperature? If the client’s lash is too acidic it can cause the adhesive to set slower and cause weaker bonds. If the lashes are too alkaline then the glue will set much quicker causing an uneven bond. Both resulting in poor retention. So, using a pH balancer is the perfect way to create a neutral pH to achieve the best retention possible. This can be used on any clients and is a great alternative to primer.
Primer
A great product to clean and sterilise the lashes before the treatment. It strips the lash from all oil build up and make up residue. Primer also has a high alcohol content, so shouldn’t be used on everyone. If a client already has dehydrated lashes, primer can strip the lash’s moisture further, causing them to become over dehydrated. Lash adhesive needs moisture to work, so if there is no moisture left in the lash it is bonding to, then the bond will be too weak. So, it’s important to only use primer on those with extra oily lashes.
So, some good questions to ask yourself about your preparation could be:
Have you cleansed your client’s lashes before starting?
You need to make sure you are prepping the lashes with some of the above methods to ensure you are creating the perfect base to get the best bond and longest retention.
Were the lashes fully dry before you started?
If the lashes were wet, or if the client’s eyes were excessively watering throughout the treatment, this can affect the retention. Make sure you are using a lint free wipe, or a fan to keep those lashes dry throughout the set.
Did you use a primer?
It’s important that a primer isn’t used on every client, but it may be needed on some of them. It’s good to ask yourself if this was something you unnecessarily did, or if it is something you might need to add next time.
Application
Once you have mastered your preparation, it’s really important to get your application right for long lasting results. If the extensions aren’t attached to the natural lash properly, dirt and friction will cause the lashes to fall off prematurely. Then this will lead to bad retention.
- Are all of the lash extensions well bonded to the natural lash?
Has the lash extension properly adhered to the base of the natural lash, like in the above picture. It’s important to ensure that the extension is flush to the natural lash and it is well bonded, to prevent it falling off the lash prematurely.
- Have you used enough glue to apply the extension?
If you haven’t used enough glue then the extension will not have a good bond with the natural lash. This can result in them falling off too quickly. Everyone is usually aware of not using too much glue, but if you are experiencing retention issues, it could be that you aren’t using enough! If you are using pre-made fans you will need more glue than if you are creating hand-made fans – so be sure to bear this in mind if you are using pre- or pro-made fans!
Adhesive
The next thing to look at is your adhesive. If the adhesive isn’t working properly then this can affect the retention. So let’s have a look at the different factors that could be affecting your glue.
Is your glue still within date since opening?
Your glue will have a ‘use within x weeks’ date, and it’s important to stay within this if you want to ensure your glue is working correctly. Top tip: write the date your opened your glue on the bottom of the bottle, so you know exactly when to swap to a fresh one.
Is your glue being stored correctly?
Check your manufacturer’s storage guidelines. We recommend storing in a cool, dark place between uses. Our hygrometer storage tank is the perfect location to store your glue and keep a track of the humidity/temperature of your room.
Are your room conditions (temperature/humidity) correct for your glue?
Following from our last point, each glue will have a working range of humidity and temperature. Working outside of this range will affect the integrity of the adhesive, so be sure to check the ideal range from your manufacturer so that you know your room’s conditions are meeting the requirement for that glue.
Is the glue you are using too fast?
If you are using a glue that is too fast for you, then the glue will start to cure partially before you attach it to the natural lash. This will mean that the bond between them will be compromised as the adhesive is cured before it is able to glue them together. Sometimes if it is only partially cured, the lash can appear stuck however it will fall off or maybe even brush off prematurely where it isn’t properly bonded to the natural lash. If this is happening, you may need to find a slightly slower dying time adhesive or tweak your rooms temperature/humidity conditions.
Are you refreshing your glue dot every 15-30 minutes depending on your room conditions?
If your room is especially warm/humid then you need to be changing your glue dot even more regularly! As soon as adhesive is exposed to air, the curing process begins, and the outer layer will start to polymerise. If we let the glue get gloopy and string, then the bond between the extension and natural lash will be compromised, in a similar way to the above point. It can also cause clumpy lashes with bulky bases which is never nice! So, to ensure your glue is effective, make sure to put a new dot down every 15-30 minutes.
Post-treatment
Did you know that there are some post-treatment products that can help with your client’s retention? Let’s have a look into the different options and how they work:
A bonder, also known as a sealant, can help improve retention by applying a small amount of the liquid to the areas of lashes that were glued at the end of the appointment. How does it do this? A bonder typically contains alkaline ingredients which accelerate the curing process of the glue by adding additional moisture in a controlled way. This makes sure that the bond is completely cured the whole way through, not just on the surface. Because the curing process is sped up, this means that stronger bonds will form between the extension and natural lash, improving retention.
This is a small device that releases a fine mist of water particles into the air. It plays a key role in increasing the humidity near the eyes without soaking the lashes. Similarly in the way a bonder works, it helps speed up the curing process by introducing more moisture to cure the glue right to the centre. By increasing the curing time, the bonds will form stronger, and retention will be increased.
Aftercare
Now that we have covered everything that could be addressed by you as a lash tech… let’s have a look at what things our client’s could do/stop to improve their retention!
Is your client following aftercare?
Now we all know to give our clients aftercare advice at the end of the appointment. But are we completely sure they are following the advice to the T? If your client is coming to their infill appointment with dirty lashes with oil build up etc, then it is highly unlikely that they are regularly washing their lashes! So, make sure to check in with your clients, especially if they comment on their retention issues, to ensure they are aware of how important aftercare is! I always say to my clients ‘this is a partnership… I have done my part so now it’s your turn!’
Do they sleep on their front/side?
If your client sleeps on their side or front, the friction from their pillowcase will cause the lashes to come off prematurely. You could recommend a lash eye mask like this one below, to help shield the lashes and stop them from rubbing against anything.
Have they been using oily products around the eyes?
Oil build-up will cause lashes to come off prematurely, as it can affect the adhesive. This is why it is so important for clients to regularly wash their lashes! Check that your client isn’t using oily skincare products around the eyes, as they may be doing so unknowingly!
Has your client started any new medication?
Finally, if your client has changed or started any new medications, then this can affect retention. Hormones play a massive part in our growth cycle and some medications can change the way our lashes grow/shed. Therefore effecting retention. Always check whether your clients have any changes in medication. If you have any doubts, always refer them to a GP/pharmacist.
So, as you can see, there are a huge number of factors that can affect your clients’ retention. Some being things you can control/change and others not. Go through this checklist if your client comes to you with any concerns about their retention. If you notice their retention has worsened between appointments, or if it’s happening across multiple clients – go through this checklist of things that could be affecting the retention and make changes along the way to see what helps!
I like to think – if it is happening to 1 client, it is usually something they are doing. But if it’s happening across a few clients, then it is highly likely that it is something I am doing! So, bear this in mind when doing your checks.
Want to learn how to properly prep your clients lashes and apply eyelash extensions? Take a look at our Classic Eyelash Extension course here!
If you have any other retention tips, drop them in the comment section below!
And happy lashing!
The Pinkfishes Team xx
